A Baltic Kitchen Journal

Latvian Cooking Without Vegetable Oil

Grey peas simmered slow, herring fried in butter until the skin turns lace crisp, and rye bread saved for dessert instead of the bin. Six recipes carried from the Baltic coast, cooked exactly the way they have always been.

Enter the Recipes

What Never Changes

Three Rules of a Latvian Kitchen

Latvia sits between dense pine forest and the cold Baltic Sea, and its cooking was shaped by what the land and coast actually gave a household: dairy, pork fat, rye and root vegetables. A jug of neutral vegetable oil never entered the picture.

01

Sviests, Vienmēr Butter, Always

Cultured butter goes into the pan first, not drizzled on at the end. It carries the flavor of a dish from the first potato to the last bite of pastry, and nothing thinned or refined stands in for it.

02

Speķis, Ne Eļļa Bacon Fat, Never Oil

Rendered smoked bacon fat seasons grey peas, potato pancakes and pastry fillings alike. In a Latvian pantry it is an everyday staple, not something saved for a special occasion.

03

Krējums Pāri Visam Sour Cream Over Everything

Thick, cultured sour cream finishes what butter starts, spooned over cold soup, warm pancakes and even the fried herring straight from the pan.

From the Coast to the Table

Six Latvian Recipes, Cooked the Old Way

Every recipe below leans on butter, rendered bacon fat, sour cream or a good olive oil where the dish calls for it. Not one reaches for vegetable oil.

Grey peas simmered with smoked bacon and onion in a Latvian bowl

Latvia's Christmas Eve classic: whole grey peas simmered until creamy, then folded with smoked bacon, onion and butter rendered fat. Served warm with a spoon of sour cream.

Time: 1 hr 45 min Serves: 6 Difficulty: Easy

Ingredients

  • 2 cups dried grey peas (or speckled peas), soaked overnight
  • 6 oz smoked bacon, diced
  • 2 tbsp butter
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 tsp caraway seeds
  • Sea salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tbsp sour cream, to serve

Method

  1. Drain the soaked peas and rinse well. Place in a heavy pot, cover with fresh water by two inches, add the bay leaf and bring to a gentle simmer.
  2. Cook uncovered for 60 to 75 minutes, skimming any foam, until the peas are tender but still hold their shape. Drain, reserving a little cooking liquid.
  3. While the peas cook, melt the butter in a skillet and render the diced bacon until golden and the fat runs clear.
  4. Add the chopped onion and garlic to the bacon and cook until soft and lightly caramelized, about 8 minutes.
  5. Stir the caraway seeds into the onion and bacon, then fold the whole mixture through the drained peas, loosening with reserved liquid if needed.
  6. Season generously with salt and pepper, spoon into bowls, and serve warm with a dollop of sour cream.
Pan fried Baltic herring served over buttered dill potatoes

Small silvery herring, dredged in rye flour and fried in butter until the skin turns lace crisp, served over boiled potatoes tossed in more butter and fresh dill.

Time: 40 min Serves: 4 Difficulty: Easy

Ingredients

  • 12 fresh Baltic herring or sprats, cleaned and butterflied
  • 1/2 cup rye flour, for dredging
  • 4 tbsp butter, divided
  • 1.5 lbs small new potatoes
  • 1 bunch fresh dill, chopped
  • 2 tbsp sour cream
  • 1 lemon, cut into wedges
  • Sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 small shallot, thinly sliced

Method

  1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the potatoes until just tender, about 15 minutes. Drain.
  2. Pat the herring dry, season with salt and pepper, then dredge lightly in rye flour, shaking off the excess.
  3. Melt half the butter in a wide skillet over medium high heat until foaming, then fry the herring in batches, about 2 minutes per side, until crisp and golden.
  4. Toss the warm potatoes with the remaining butter, the chopped dill and the sliced shallot until coated.
  5. Arrange the potatoes on a platter and lay the fried herring over the top.
  6. Finish with a spoon of sour cream, extra dill and lemon wedges alongside.
Golden Latvian potato pancakes topped with sour cream and chives

Grated potato and onion bound with egg and a little flour, fried in bacon fat until the edges turn lacy and dark gold, always finished with cold sour cream.

Time: 35 min Serves: 4 Difficulty: Easy

Ingredients

  • 2 lbs starchy potatoes, peeled
  • 1 small onion, grated
  • 2 large eggs
  • 3 tbsp all purpose flour
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • 1/2 tsp black pepper
  • 4 tbsp rendered bacon fat (or butter)
  • 1 cup sour cream, to serve
  • 2 tbsp chopped chives
  • Pinch of nutmeg, optional

Method

  1. Grate the potatoes and onion coarsely, then wrap in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out as much liquid as possible.
  2. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, then stir in the flour, salt, pepper and nutmeg if using.
  3. Fold the squeezed potato and onion into the egg mixture until evenly coated.
  4. Heat 2 tablespoons of bacon fat in a wide skillet over medium high heat until shimmering.
  5. Drop heaping spoonfuls of batter into the pan, flattening slightly, and fry about 3 minutes per side until deep golden and crisp at the edges.
  6. Keep warm in a low oven while frying the rest, adding more fat to the pan as needed.
  7. Serve hot, each pancake topped with cold sour cream and a scatter of chives.
Bright pink Latvian cold beet and kefir soup in a bowl

A bright pink summer soup built on kefir or cultured buttermilk, grated beets, cucumber and dill, ladled into bowls beside a boiled egg and warm potatoes.

Time: 25 min + chilling Serves: 4 Difficulty: Easy

Ingredients

  • 3 medium beets, cooked and peeled
  • 4 cups kefir or cultured buttermilk
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • 1 English cucumber, finely diced
  • 4 radishes, thinly sliced
  • 3 hard boiled eggs, chopped, plus more to serve
  • 1 bunch fresh dill, chopped
  • 2 green onions, sliced
  • Sea salt, to taste
  • 4 small boiled potatoes, to serve

Method

  1. Grate the cooked beets on the coarse side of a box grater and place in a large bowl.
  2. Whisk in the kefir and sour cream until the soup turns a deep, even pink.
  3. Stir in the diced cucumber, sliced radishes, chopped eggs, dill and green onions.
  4. Season with salt, then cover and chill for at least one hour, or until well cold.
  5. Ladle into bowls and top each with an extra spoon of sour cream and a few dill fronds.
  6. Serve with a warm boiled potato on the side, to be added spoonful by spoonful as you eat.
Golden baked Latvian bacon filled pastries on a tray

A festive Latvian hand pie: a soft, buttery yeasted dough folded around a filling of smoked bacon, onion and caraway, baked until deep gold.

Time: 2 hr 30 min Makes: 20 pastries Difficulty: Medium

Ingredients

  • 4 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 cup whole milk, warmed
  • 1/2 cup butter, softened
  • 2 1/4 tsp active dry yeast
  • 2 tbsp sugar
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • 2 large eggs, one for dough, one for egg wash
  • 10 oz smoked bacon, finely diced
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 1 tsp caraway seeds

Method

  1. Dissolve the yeast and sugar in the warm milk and let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.
  2. In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt, then work in the softened butter, one egg and the yeast mixture until a soft dough forms.
  3. Knead about 8 minutes until smooth and elastic, then cover and let rise in a warm spot for 1 hour, until doubled.
  4. While the dough rises, cook the diced bacon until the fat renders, add the onion and caraway, and cook until soft. Cool completely.
  5. Punch down the dough and divide into 20 pieces. Roll each into an oval, spoon on filling, fold over and pinch the edges into a crescent.
  6. Arrange on parchment lined trays, brush with beaten egg, and rest 20 minutes while the oven heats to 400°F (200°C).
  7. Bake 15 to 18 minutes, until deep golden brown, and serve warm.
Layered Latvian rye bread dessert with whipped cream and berries

Latvia's best loved dessert: dark rye breadcrumbs toasted in butter and sugar, layered with whipped cream and tart lingonberry jam.

Time: 30 min + chilling Serves: 6 Difficulty: Easy

Ingredients

  • 6 cups dark rye bread, torn into rough crumbs
  • 4 tbsp butter
  • 1/3 cup brown sugar
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 2 cups heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
  • 1 cup lingonberry jam (or tart berry preserves)
  • 1 tbsp powdered sugar
  • 1 apple, peeled and finely diced
  • Fresh lingonberries or red currants, to garnish
  • Pinch of sea salt

Method

  1. Melt the butter in a wide skillet over medium heat, then add the rye breadcrumbs, brown sugar, cinnamon and a pinch of salt.
  2. Toast the crumbs, stirring often, for about 8 minutes, until deeply fragrant and crisp. Spread on a tray to cool completely.
  3. Whip the cream with the powdered sugar to soft peaks.
  4. In serving glasses, layer the toasted rye crumbs, a spoon of lingonberry jam, diced apple, and whipped cream.
  5. Repeat the layers once more, finishing with a generous swirl of whipped cream on top.
  6. Chill at least 30 minutes so the layers set, then garnish with fresh lingonberries just before serving.

Our Kitchen

A Table Built Between Forest and Sea

Dzintara Virtuve began as a simple record of the recipes that never made it into cookbooks: the grey peas simmered every Christmas Eve, the herring fried the way it was fried for generations, the rye bread crumbs saved for dessert instead of the bin. Latvia's kitchens sit between dense pine forest and the cold Baltic coast, and the cooking reflects it plainly. Butter, smoked bacon fat, sour cream and rye carry a meal from start to finish, never a drop of neutral vegetable oil.

We test every recipe the way it has always been made, adjusting only for a modern stove and a modern pantry. Nothing here is reinvented for the sake of it. If a dish called for rendered bacon fat on the coast near Jūrmala a hundred years ago, it still calls for it today, and we write it down exactly that way.

Rustic wooden kitchen table set with fresh herbs and butter
A Latvian kitchen without butter is just an empty room.A saying passed down in coastal kitchens